Menu Development | By Marc Halperin
Let us now pause to reflect on the seismic shifts that have rattled the world of breads and baked goods in the quick-service arena over the course of the past decade.
In the beginning, there was the humble hamburger bun, and it was … well, not so great, to be frank. Chewy, sponge-like in texture, and mostly bland, it did little to complement the tasty meats, cheeses, sauces, vegetables, and condiments it bookended. Even dotted with sesame or poppy seeds, it was ultimately a pragmatic creation, rather than one designed measurably to improve the quality of the overall product. Much the same could be said of submarine rolls, standard-issue sandwich breads, ordinary pizza crusts, and such. But that has changed.
Traditionally, U.S. companies seeking to broaden their bread offerings have turned to European recipe books for inspiration, which helps explain why baguettes, levain loaves, croissants, and calzones are now fixations here in the states. Once Subway began touting its freshly baked breads as distinctive points of difference, the race was on. Arby’s Market Fresh options upped the ante. Then Jack In The Box launched its Pannido sandwiches served on ciabatta rolls. Wendy’s Frescata followed suit. Pizza Hut even got in the game and started stuffing its crusts—again.
Soon, virtually every chain worth its salt—or starch—was working to capitalize on our culture’s carb-cravings. Now, however, as we consider where this recent drive to develop novel baked goods might lead, it’s worth taking a long look east and south for cues, clues, and altogether new inspirations.
While many world cultures have raised bread baking to an art form, few have generated as many novel, exciting, or highly addictive breadstuffs as those native to the Indian subcontinent.
Naan is the region’s best-known and most beloved export, and it’s not hard to see why. The dough can be flavored in any number of ways, using everything from garlic to onion to both ordinary and exotic spices. What’s more, naan’s relative pliability means it can also be stuffed with potatoes, vegetables, meats, and other choice fillings. As such, naan works both as a traditional carrier and as a dish in its own right.
Some outlets already discovered the vast variety of interesting concoctions naan can generate. In Victoria, British Columbia, for instance, an enterprising chef named Omar Baig has been drawing raves for his Sabri Naanwich, a single fast-food outlet offering both familiar and exotic East Indian sandwiches inside a host of naan carriers, including such breeds as potato, ginger, spicy cheese, and onion. Naanwich fillings range from lamb stews to chicken tikka masala to Philly Cheesesteak to garden mixed vegetables.
Elsewhere throughout Asia, other interesting breads and flatbreads are available in abundance. Like naan, crispy papadom wafers are frequent fixtures in U.S. Indian restaurants, but bao, the distinctive Asian buns stuffed with meats and vegetables, are generating a buzz stateside as well.

