Evolution
of Ethnic Cuisine
A continuous influx of immigrants and a sophistication
of the American palate are moving ethnic tastes in foodservice beyond
the generic. By Sabrina Davis
Not long ago, a burger or chicken sandwich met
most Americans’ standards for a quick meal—fast and
filling. For the more adventurous, there was pizza or a ground beef
taco or container full of shrimp fried rice.
Standards have changed.
Americans are still time-conscious and hungry,
but another factor is quickly becoming equally if not more important—flavor.
Consumers are looking for bolder, deeper flavors. They’re
craving hot, but also sweet and savory. America’s food IQ
is higher than ever, backed by the Food Network, magazines, and
record cookbook sales. Educated consumers are looking for authentic
ingredients and regional flavors. They no longer just want chili
peppers; they want chipotle rubs and poblano salsas. Consumers,
who once craved Mexican, now want Oaxacan or Yucatan flavors.
When food manufacturers were recently asked
about future planning, respondents ranked “ethnic” as
the single “hottest” food category over the next five
years, according to Packaged Facts, a publishing division of MarketResearch.com.
The market growth of ethnic foods will be 50 percent over the next
decade, according to studies by market-research firm Promar International.
Moreover, while ethnic consumers are a driving force, mainstream
consumers are expected to purchase 75 percent of ethnic foods over
the next decade.
Fast-casual restaurants are not only responding
to this trend, many suggest they’ve had a key role in escalating
it. Quick-service restaurants have been slower to respond, but many
are adding ethnic flavors to their menus in a cautious but effective
manner.
 |
Mainstream consumers are expected to purchase
75 percent of ethnic foods over the next decade. |
Why Now?
A combination of consumer and cultural factors
are driving the trend toward ethnic dining. Most evident is the
influx of ethnic populations, especially Hispanics and Asians.
Hispanics are the largest U.S. minority,
making up 13 percent of the population according to the U.S. Census.
By 2008, more than 16 percent of the population is expected to have
Hispanic roots.
Hispanic flavors that are growing in popularity,
according to Packaged Facts, include exotic fruits like mango, papaya,
and tamarind; robust heat from chilies; flavorful sauces for grilled
and barbecued meats; and sweet traditional tastes such as dulce
de leche.
The Asian population, while relatively small
at 4.3 percent according to the 2000 Census, is the fastest growing
racial/ethnic group in the United States. By 2050, the Census Bureau
projects that one in ten Americans will trace their heritage to
Asian or Pacific roots. As that population grows, ingredients such
as lemon grass, curry, galangal (Thai ginger), Shitake mushrooms,
sweet red chili sauce, and yuzu and ponzu (citrus-flavored soy sauce)
are becoming more popular. Southeast Asian flavors, in particular,
are expected to be a high growth area, which should come as no surprise
given that the U.S.’s Indian population is the fastest growing
subset of Asians.
In addition to the multicultural influences,
generational factors are helping further popularize ethnic flavors.
Children and teenagers, who already name Chinese and Mexican among
their favorite flavors, are growing up with an acceptance of international
flavors and will further strengthen current trends, says UBF Foodsolutions
Corporate Executive Chef Steve Jilleba.
“Generation Xers look at this as more
of a one-world place. They ate Doritos as children and have been
craving bolder, spicier flavors ever since. Baby boomers, on the
other hand, are getting older and losing their taste buds and need
more flavor,” says Jilleba. (Indeed, most studies indicate
that taste buds begin to dull after age 45.)
Those in their 40s, 50s, and 60s—the
wealthiest of consumers—show less interest in trying exotic
dishes, but are willing to try ethnic flavors when they’re
paired with familiar foods. This explains why many quick-service
restaurants are tiptoeing into ethnic flavors—topping a chicken
salad with chipotle ranch dressing, adding a sun-dried tomato pesto
to a familiar sandwich, or inserting familiar ingredients into a
flatbread wrap.
 |
“The introduction of ethnic flavor
would not have happened as quickly without quick-casual restaurants,”
says Pawlak at Technomic. |
The Fast-Casual Factor
The more adventuresome among the quick-service
chains might reject the notion that they are “tip-toeing”
into this trend, but when compared to the pace ethnic trends are
making headway in the fast-casual sector, the description appears
more than appropriate. “The introduction of ethnic flavor
really would not have happened as quickly without quick-casual restaurants,”
says Joe Pawlak, senior principal at Technomic.
“Specialty items like pico de gallo,
guacamole, pinto beans, shitake mushrooms, and ginger are becoming
more mainstream,” Pawlak says. “Fast-casual restaurants,
especially those in the fresh Mexican and Asian categories, have
made specialty ingredients something people can get everyday; quickly
and at a reasonable price.”
It used to be an adventure to find a little
hole in the wall ethnic restaurant, says UBF Foodsolutions’
national accounts executive chef Dan Burrows. “Now you can
find these similar flavors at Noodles & Company, or get Thai
peanut sauce on a pizza at Schlotzsky’s or a Mediterranean-style
sandwich at Panera Bread.”
“A lot of interesting culinary concepts
have been brought to the masses from the rise of quick-casual,”
says Noodles & Company founder and CEO Aaron Kennedy. “Only
the brave were willing to venture into a Korean or Vietnamese neighborhood
restaurant. Quick-casual is bringing those flavors out of the neighborhoods
and into mainstream.”
Kennedy says he developed his restaurant
in 1995 because he saw a growing demand for higher quality, more
interesting, yet convenient food. “But I’ve really seen
palettes change over the last nine years. Back then, we were thinking
that Thai food was pretty exotic. Now we have gone well into Indian
food and Middle Eastern foods and are sampling obscure cuisines
from northern African and Morocco.”
Kennedy says Tuscan, or Northern Italian
cooking, and Thai flavors are very popular right now. He predicts
the next growth area will be Vietnamese cooking. He’s not
alone.
 |
“People used to just say they wanted
Italian, or southwestern, or Mexican,” says Arby’s
Chef Harris. “But now they’re more specific.” |
Growth Areas
J.R. Simplot Foods recently developed its
Asian Inspirations recipe booklet to help foodservice providers
answer the demand for Vietnamese, Thai, and Indian flavors. While
the cookbook is geared toward fine dining, Simplot Corporate Chef
Mark Hill sees the flavors trickling down into casual, fast-casual,
and quick-service as well.
“People are looking for bolder flavors.
They like Latin, Thai, Indian, and Vietnamese because of the strong
flavors. Quick-service restaurant operators can take advantage of
the flavor profiles and combine them with more mainstream menu items,”
Hill says.
For example, the Simplot cookbook details
a Thai Asparagus and Cucumber Salad, which has a touch of lime,
fish sauce, and red chilies. The Vietnamese Cabbage and Chicken
Salad combines crispy noodles with sugar snap peas, mint, apples,
and a pungent dressing. Hill says fast-casual or quick-service operators
could choose a few of the ingredients to give an Asian flair to
an ordinary salad.
Simplot chefs also developed the “Flavors
of the Latin Table” recipe compilation to give foodservice
providers ideas about incorporating flavors from Brazil, Mexico,
Argentina, Ecuador, and the Dominican Republic. “Latin food
is the most popular right now,” Hill says. “The smoky-hot
flavors of chipotle (smoked and dried jalapenos), along with the
fresh chilies—the Anaheim, the poblano (also called ancho),
the habanero…the pasillas (dried poblanos)—are in high
demand.”
Among Simplot’s Latin recipes is Papas
Escabechadas—warm cubed potatoes steeped in a tangy lime,
chili, onion, and cilantro escabeche sauce served in a crisp lettuce
wrap.
Hill emphasizes ethnic recipes don’t
have to be authentic to be a hit with Americans. He encourages chefs
to take a few ingredients from various ethnic dishes and experiment
with them or combine them.
“The birthplace of the potato was
Peru,” Hill says. “Americans love potatoes. You might
think about how can I take the flavors of Thailand and add them
to a potato. You don’t really see potatoes in Thailand, but
you can rub them with turmeric and give them a Thai flavor. The
best way to introduce these flavors is to take products familiar
to the typical American palate and incorporate the flavors of the
world.”
Recognizing Regional Flavors
Asian and Hispanic flavors clearly are the
leaders in ethnic innovation, but today’s savvy consumers
are beginning to recognize that those are two broad umbrellas for
numerous regional cooking styles such as Indian, Thai, Vietnamese,
Japanese, Mediterranean, Greek, African, Spanish, Caribbean, and
Latin American.
“People used to just say they wanted
Italian, or southwestern or Mexican,” says Arby’s Executive
Chef Calvin Harris. “But now they’re more specific.
It’s not just Italian, it’s Tuscan or Mediterranean.
Instead of Mexican, they’re looking for Latin blends from
Cuba, Peru, or Mexico.”
Consumer ability to recognize the regional
roots of ethnic flavors is considered the most noticeable change
in the collective food IQ. In fact, the market for ethnic food has
grown to such an extent that Italian, Mexican, and Chinese cuisines
have joined the mainstream. Identified as the best-known ethnic
cuisines in a 1994 survey, these three cuisines have now become
so integrated into American culture that they are no longer considered
ethnic, says Packaged Facts editor Don Montuori. In addition to
Vietnamese and Thai, current high-interest flavors include Indian,
Moroccan, Spanish, and Caribbean.
 |
The best way to introduce these flavors
is to take products familiar to the typical American palate
and incorporate the flavors of the world,” says Simplot’s
Hill. |
How It’s Happening
The array of ingredients and ethnic flavors
being introduced by media and celebrity chefs is complex and far-reaching,
yet restaurants are finding simple ways to give diners a taste of
the world.
As suggested by Simplot’s Mark Hill
and others, sometimes just one interesting ingredient can makeover
a menu item. Fast-casual and quick-service restaurant chains are
experimenting in four main categories: spices, sauces, cheeses,
and breads.
UBF Foodsolutions’ Dan Burrows suggests
the very naming of a menu item, especially emphasizing the cooking
method, can give it an ethnic feel. “People want to think
we’re cooking this stuff back in the kitchen. Using glamour
words like ‘slow-roasted’ or ‘slowly-brazed,’
‘fire-roasted,’ ‘smokey,’ and ‘seared’
give consumers a different image of ordinary foods.”
UBF Foodsolutions sells a variety of Knorr
ready-to-use sauces, which Burrows says can quickly turn an ordinary
item into an ethnic innovation. Among the choices are Jamaican Jerk
Sauce, Mango Habanero Sauce, and Chipotle Barbecue Sauce, which
Burrows says, “provides the spiciness and romance of the chipotle
that people are looking for.”
Arby’s is using simple, low-risk ingredient
additions to provide ethnic flavors and textures. “Our baguette
is a ciabatta-based formula that is definitely Italian,” Harris
says. Introducing a bread that has just a two day—at best—shelf
life was risky, he admits, but the customer response has been overwhelmingly
positive. “I think the success of our French Dip sandwich
was in large part due to the bread.”
Arby’s is now rolling out a new line
of Market Fresh Salads that incorporate international flavors via
new toppings. The Asian Sesame Salad is topped with Asian Sesame
Dressing, which Harris says is teriyaki-based with ginger, garlic,
sweet pineapple, and soy sauce. The Santa Fe Salad is topped with
Simplot Foods’ fire-roasted corn and peppers.
In addition, Arby’s soon will introduce
a smoked mozzarella. “It’s a twist on something that’s
common,” Harris says of the new cheese. “When you put
it on turkey or chicken, it elevates it to the next level. It tastes
like something that came off a grill in another country.”
Schlotzsky’s is having success with
its own Italian-style paninis. “We have a variety of
menu items that give our customers a chance to try new flavors,”
says Joyce Cates, senior vice president of franchise operations.
“We use eggplant, portobello mushrooms, feta and gorgonzola
cheeses, fresh Genoa, prosciutto, and authentic Asian sauces that
put our menu items into distinct ethnic categories like Mediterranean,
Asian, Mexican, and Italian, or Tuscan.”
Almost every quick-service and fast-casual
restaurant is getting in on the ethnic act in some way, rather than
face the risk of being left behind. Small changes like McDonald’s
test of flat bread as a new sandwich wrap, or Wendy’s offering
Spicy Southwest Chipotle sauce with its chicken strips are getting
big attention now. Standards have changed. Customers want bolder,
more exciting flavors. But the greatest palette changes are likely
still ahead.
Sabrina Davis is a freelance writer,
graphic designer, and video producer in Wilmington, North Carolina.
She began her career as a television news reporter.Her work appears
monthly in QSR.