More
Cheese, Please
Thanks to specialty diets, cheese is, well, the
big cheese. By Sabrina Davis
Almost 100 percent of American households use it regularly. Eight
in 10 Americans say they love it. And the average American consumer
eats more than 31 pounds of it a year. “Ahh, the Power of
Cheese,” or so the American Dairy Association slogan goes.
There are cheese varieties, flavors, and
textures to match almost every palate, and it complements almost
any food or drink. Although cheese has long been favored by nutritionists
for its calcium, its fat content has kept it off many dieters’
lists. That trend is changing, though, thanks to high-protein, low-carbohydrate
diets and research that shows calcium-rich diets contribute to weight
loss. Increased sales of cheese over the past 10 years are credited
mainly to foodservice offerings, according to the Wisconsin Milk
Marketing Board (WMMB). Dairy Foods magazine advises cheesemakers
looking to sell more of their product to market to restaurants.
All of these trends point to a consistently growing opportunity
to serve quick-service and fast-casual patrons more cheese.
The Market
Overall, cheese industry leaders are pleased
with the work quick-service and fast-casual operators are doing
to incorporate cheese options across their menus. “I would
argue that cheese is fairly well developed in how it’s used
across meal parts,” says Chris Moore, vice president of food
service channel development for Dairy Management Inc. (DMI), the
marketing organization and parent company of the American Dairy
Association, the National Dairy Council, and the U.S. Dairy Export
Council. “With that said, we believe there is tremendous headroom
to grow cheese, especially as fast-food restaurants tweak their
menus in reaction to growing concern over health and obesity.”
Most consumers say they would like to see
more cheese on menus. Six in 10 say they’d like to try new
cheeses (WMMB data). And 30 percent of respondents to a 2001 DMI
study said they eat cheese once a day or more; 55 percent said they
eat cheese a couple of times a week. With Americans consuming an
average 31 pounds of cheese in 2003 (USDA)—albeit twice as
much as 30 years ago—there is still room to grow in comparison
to our European neighbors. France, Italy, Spain, and Greece all
count their average per capita cheese consumption at between 40
and 50 pounds per person. “With so many Americans eating out,
we feel that partnering with restaurant chains to increase the number
of menu items that include cheese will enable us to get to those
numbers,” Moore says.
Cheese is used by 93 percent of all quick-service
restaurants, and the quick-service segment accounts for more than
half (56.5 percent) of all cheese used in foodservice, according
to the WMMB, which is funded by dairy farmers. The overall growth
of U.S. cheese sales from an $8.8 billion industry in 1997 to an
$11 billion industry in 2001 to projections of $14 billion in sales
by 2006, is credited in large part to increased offerings in restaurants,
according to the WMMB. “Restaurants are really trying to keep
up with consumer demand for sophisticated and ethnic flavors. That’s
trickling down to fast food and fast-casual,” says Marilyn
Wilkinson, WMMB director of national product communication. “As
breads have come of age in quick-service, it has led to demand for
more interesting kinds of cheeses. And that bodes well for the future. We’re likely
to see many more specialty cheeses offered across the fast-food
segment.”
The U.S. cheese market includes three main
categories: natural cheese (including gourmet and specialty cheeses,
ranging from soft to very hard), processed cheese (including American
cheese and others made by blending natural cheese with other ingredients),
and imitation cheese (processed spreads, cold pack cheese, and cheese
products, made with milk or dairy alternative ingredients and additives).
Domestic cheese production has doubled since
the 1970s. The United States is now the leading producer of the
world’s cheese, generating 30 percent of global volume in
2001, according to Packaged Facts, a publishing division of MarketResearch.com.
Increases in demand and growth predominantly have been in the natural
cheese category, with consumption of processed cheese and imitation
cheese remaining fairly flat since 1990. Wisconsin, the birthplace
of Brick and Colby cheese, is the leader in U.S. cheese production,
but California, which introduced Monterey Jack, is quickly catching
up. Other leading producers are New York, Minnesota, and Maine.
Cheese Eaters
Most cheese-eating consumers make
c heese a part of their diet: |
| Once a week |
9% |
| A couple times a month
|
6% |
| Once a day |
23% |
| More than once a day
|
7% |
| A couple times a week
|
55% |
| Source:
DMI Core Issues Tracking Study, Sept. 2001 |
|
 |
What’s Being Served
Americans’ favorite cheese is cheddar,
according to DMI and the USDA. It’s rare that a food favorite
is not the most highly consumed in its category, but that is the
case with cheese, thanks to the foodservice industry. American cheese
is the most heavily consumed of the cheeses (DMI), simply because
most fast-food, and even casual dining restaurants use American
as the standard cheese on burgers and basic sandwiches. “Our
research shows that if restaurants offered a wider array of cheese
choices, consumers would accept those choices,” says DMI’s
Moore.
“The main reason quick-serves prefer
processed American cheese,” Wilkinson says, “is because
it has a beautiful melt and holds the melt. Processed cheese is
held at high temperatures when it’s being made. Specialty
cheeses are sensitive to high temperatures.”
“Natural cheese is more difficult
to work with in the quick-service atmosphere,” says Peter
Gibbons, senior vice president for innovation at food marketing
agency Noble. Gibbons managed product development at Burger King
for three and a half years before joining Noble in July. “Natural
cheese doesn’t melt as well, and there’s a limited time
to work with it after it’s cut. Also, it’s often twice
the cost of processed cheese. That means it needs to deliver twice
the value through upcharge,” Gibbons says. “People are
looking for more edginess and sharpness. So, there’s a challenge
ahead for cheesemakers to deliver more flavorful processed cheeses
that mimic the characteristics of high-end cheeses but are easy
for quick-service to work with.”
Wendy’s Dairy Commodities Manager
J.J. Schultz spoke at the International Cheese Technology Exposition
in Wisconsin this year about the needs of quick-service operators.
DMI considers Wendy’s a strong partner, given the wide variety
of natural and processed cheeses served over the years. “I
stressed to the cheesemakers that meltability is one of our needs,
but most important is having consistency of product,” he says.
“Many cheesemakers will tell you that natural cheeses have
variation from one block to the next. But I stressed to them that
our customers can’t bite into a nice slice of Colby Jack one
day and have the same cheese as tough as a piece of rubber another
day.”
Melting quality doesn’t matter on
cold sandwiches and salads, categories of opportunity for specialty
cheese innovation. “Salads are getting bigger because of the
trend toward healthful eating,” Wilkinson says. “That’s
opening the door to a lot of cheeses that are more flavorful and
add value and an upscale component to fast-food salads.”
“Salads are a great sampling opportunity,”
Gibbons says. “What people like about them is they are a smorgasbord
of flavors. It’s a good place to introduce something edgy.”
Gibbons helped Burger King introduce shaved Parmesan on its Fire-Grilled
Caesar and Garden salads. “It’s turned them into high-end
salads. The cheese is flavorful and has texture, and most importantly,
you can identify it as cheese, not sawdust,” Gibbons says.
Chris Moore commends McDonald’s for
topping its California Cobb Salad with crumbled bleu cheese, its
Bacon Ranch Salad with a blend of jack and cheddar, and its Caesar
with grated Parmesan. “That’s a great example of how
a chain is leveraging a variety of cheeses in their operation.”
Wendy’s is testing its Mediterranean
Chicken Salad topped with feta cheese. “So far, customers
are telling us, ‘Hey, I really like the taste of this cheese,’”
Schultz says. “That’s just one example of the shift
we’re seeing in the baseline customer who is now looking for
more natural cheeses.” Wendy’s tops its Caesar with
Parmesan and its other salads with natural cheddar.
Moore promises new salad innovations in
2005 but sees many more opportunities for cheese. Through the Dairy
Checkoff Unified Marketing Plan, a collaborative effort to increase
demand for U.S. dairy products, DMI partners with foodservice chains,
including McDonald’s, Pizza Hut, Wendy’s, Taco Bell,
and others, to emphasize how dairy can assist in marketing menu
items to consumers. “Our goal is to elevate the variety of
cheeses on menus and to offer new ways to serve cheese. You’re
going to see new sandwiches and salads and cool new cheese snacking
products in chains in 2005,” Moore says, adding that he can’t
elaborate due to the proprietary nature of DMI’s partnerships.
 |
“As chains are stepping up to offer
better choices to kids, cheese can play a major role in that
effort.” |
The Opportunity
A combination of timely factors seems to
have converged to pique operators’ interest in cheese. Most
notable and newsworthy has been consumers’ interest in more
healthful eating. “The emphasis on low-carb diets obviously
has helped sell more cheese,” says WMMB’s Wilkinson.
“We don’t have any numbers to support that; cheese sales
have not been studied in that way. But when you look at what’s
being emphasized about these diets—I think that’s been
positive for cheese.”
“Eating cheese is a luxury on the
Atkins diet,” says Colette Heimowitz, vice president of education
and research at Atkins Nutritionals. “Dieters are allowed
four ounces of hard cheese in the induction phase, and they are
allowed soft cheese—cottage cheese and ricotta—in the
ongoing weight loss phase.”
The prevalence of low-carb dieters (ACNielson’s
2003 data shows 17 percent of Americans are on a low-carb regimen
with many more just cutting carbs) might have been an impetus for
an innovative breakfast and snack offering at Starbucks. Most units
now offer a fruit and cheese plate. “At breakfast, where bread
and pastries have been king, Starbucks is answering the demand for
alternatives,” says Allison Fishman, senior food editor at
Atkins.
“Starbucks has recognized that cheese
is a perfect snack item,” Chris Moore says. “We think
this is the start of incremental growth we’re going to see
from coffee establishments. This type of snacking item is a tremendous
opportunity for cheese.”
At the other of the spectrum, Wendy’s
is testing new low-carb Tuscan Chicken and Tuscan Beef meals that
include an Asiago-flavored sauce and are topped with shredded Parmesan,
all served over roasted vegetables.
Beyond low-carb diets, scientific research
now links dairy consumption, in combination with a balanced, reduced
calorie diet, to weight loss and weight management. “The dairy
industry is planning to invest significant promotional dollars in
2005 to leverage the science of eating three dairy servings a day
and the body’s ability to lose fat and weight,” Moore
says.
Making kids’ menus more healthful
is also a major focus of DMI’s partnerships with quick-service
chains. “Quick-service restaurants already aggressively promote
their products to kids,” Moore says. “Now, as chains
are stepping up to the plate to offer better choices to kids, we
think cheese can play a major role in that effort.” Moore
says string cheese, macaroni and cheese, grilled cheese, and mozzarella
sticks have proven popular and likely will become more prevalent
along with some other innovative offerings next year.
| Cheese Facts |
| • |
About one-third of consumers try new cheeses at a
restaurant. |
| • |
The quick-service segment accounts for more than half
(56.5%) of all cheese used in the foodservice channel.
|
| • |
Cheese is used by 93 percent of all quick-serves. |
| • |
The pizza segment accounts for 75 percent of all cheese
sold to quick-serves, using an average of 4.9 cheese
varieties |
| • |
The sandwich segment accounts for 9 percent of all
cheese sold to the quick-service segment, using an average
of 5.7 varieties. |
| • |
The hamburger segment accounts for 7 percent of all
cheese sold to quick-serves, using about 2.8 varieties. |
| Source: Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board
|
|
Ethnic Flavors
Growing consumer demand for bold, sophisticate,
and ethnic flavors has also increased demand for cheese. “The
growing influence of Hispanic and Mediterranean flavors has been
positive for cheese,” Wilkinson says. “The palates of
mainstream Americans have been expanded. You’re now seeing
foods from Mexico, Greece, and Italy, for example, that weren’t
available a decade ago. Those foods have increased familiarity with
specialty cheeses.”
Schlotzsky’s cites interest in ethnic
and sophisticated flavors as the reason its stores offer so many
cheeses on its sandwiches and salads—perhaps the largest variety
offered by a large fast-casual chain. Its original menu included
cheddar, whole-milk mozzarella, grated Parmesan, Swiss American,
and feta. The new Café and Bakery Menu expands cheese offerings
and quality by adding Gorgonzola, an Italian blue cheese, and Gruyère,
a Swiss cheese with a buttery, toasty flavor. The new menu also
adds provolone, replaces the Swiss-American processed cheese with
natural Swiss, and upgrades the grated Parmesan to fresh Parmesan.
“We don’t have American cheese,”
says Lori Schneider, Schlotzsky’s research and development
coordinator. “We feel our customers are looking for upscale
flavors and are familiar with the flavor profiles of the cheeses
we offer. There has been some education involved in launching Gruyère
and Gorgonzola, but we have descriptions listed and response has
been really positive.”
Limited time offerings is one of the best
ways to experiment and educate consumers on new cheeses, and that’s
just what Schlotzsky’s is doing. In August, the chain launched
its Grilled Chicken Romano Panini, putting Gruyère front
and center. This month, Schlotzsky’s reintroduced its Angus
Steak and Provolone sandwich, an LTO popular earlier in the year.
“While we may be a leader in offering
more cheeses on a large scale, I think in the industry as a whole,
people are really embracing cheese and trying to offer new things.
Look at what Panera Bread did for Asiago,” Schneider says.
Wendy’s is also using LTOs to introduce
new cheeses. Its Wild Mountain burger and chicken sandwich were
so successful earlier this year that they will return to the menu.
“I worked closely with our research and development team to
find the perfect complement to a very tangy and spicy Chipotle sauce,”
Schultz says. “We wanted to balance that with something smooth
and buttery, and we chose a three-quarter ounce slice of Colby Jack.”
Adding Value
In tandem with adding sophistication to
salads and sandwiches, cheese also adds value. The main point of
resistance to up-scaling cheeses is cost, according to both WMMB
and DMI. Natural cheeses, specialty cheeses in particular, are expensive.
However, surveys show the cost can easily be made up through upcharges.
“Sandwiches made with specialty cheese
varieties such as Wisconsin Asiago, Gruyère, or Gouda command
higher menu prices—up to $2 more—than sandwiches made
with American cheese,” Wilkinson says, citing WMMB data. A
2001 DMI study showed 78 percent of respondents answering they would
pay more to have cheese added to a menu item.
Prices have been a concern industrywide.
With wholesale milk prices at a five-year low in 2003, supplies
have dropped, raising cheese prices. “We haven’t seen
evidence that chains are using less cheese,” Moore says. “The
public knows, as do foodservice operators, that dairy products are
a good source of nutrients and flavor and are a good value.”
WMMB’s Wilkinson agrees. “If quick-service chains haven’t
decreased their usage by now, I don’t foresee it happening.”
“Our data shows 8 in 10 people say
they not only love cheese, but there’s no substitute for it,”
Wilkinson says. “If you’re not going to eat beef, there’s
chicken or other meats. But cheese is in a category all by itself.”
That reason alone may be why the future
of cheese is so bright. With more than 300 varieties of cheese produced
in the United States and production growing, there will be no shortage
of product. DMI sees the greatest opportunities at breakfast, on
kids’ menus, and in upscaling sandwiches and salads. Restaurant
operators also are recognizing the time is right to experiment and
they, the dairy industry, and consumers all are likely to enjoy
the process.
Sabrina Davis is a writer, graphic designer,
and video producer in Wilmington, North Carolina. She can be reached
Sabrina@stratcomsolutions.com.