Prime Movers
A survey of culinary trends just around the bend. by Marc Halperin

Despite popular perception, quick-service restaurants have rarely been slaves to fashion. Though they have, over
time, adapted to significant changes in the American palate and to the
culture’s growing emphasis on convenience, value, and health,
they’ve never zealously latched onto every fleeting food fad that
whistles down the pike.
The TrendMapping content-analysis method developed
years ago at Center for Culinary Development consistently shows that
culinary trends pass through five distinct stages en route to mainstream
acceptance—a level of mass penetration that typically culminates in a
flavor or dish turning up on quick-service menuboards and on grocery-store
shelves.
First, the new dish or ingredient is road-tested by
cutting-edge chefs in adventurous urban markets—sometimes in the form
of daily specials, sometimes on the standard daily menu. An item that
proves highly popular with diners often stays on the menu long-term. And
sometime during its lifespan, the item will be sampled by other chefs, who
always keep an eye on their competition’s creative and commercial
breakthroughs. Those chefs might ultimately add the dish to their own
establishments’ menus.
After enough chefs have introduced a similar dish or
begun experimenting with an exciting new taste, culinary specialty media
such as Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, or the Food
Network will take note of the burgeoning phenomenon. This is Stage 2 on the
TrendMap. And if enough articles on the same subject appear in these
taste-making publications, you can bet that mid-scale chain restaurants,
such as Applebee’s, Chili’s, and others, will soon begin to
tinker with the trend and test it on their own menus. That’s Stage 3.
Once the chain restaurants find themselves with a
runaway hit, it’s just a few short steps to Stage 4, where the trend
in question begins to attract coverage in magazines, such as Better Homes and Gardens and Family Circle. And this positive
press typically leads to Stage 5, in which quick-serves and large grocery
stores get in the game. The best and most prevalent examples of trends that
have followed this life cycle are such modern staples as pesto, Caesar
salads, chipotle, salsa, and lattes.
Now, part of quick-service’s
reluctance to be swept up in the taste du jour has to do with prudence. Creating
and launching new products is a costly exercise, and a heavily promoted new
sandwich that doesn’t drive transactions or check amounts won’t
provide an adequate return on investment.
However, the downside of this conservative tendency is
that fast-food chains seldom get in on the ground floor of the most
profitable trends. Imagine if, instead of adding a chipotle chicken
sandwich to its menu after the popular chile had already made its
appearance in several other contexts, a McDonald’s or a Burger King
or a KFC had been first to introduce it. The chains conceivably could have
reaped the “first-on-their-block” benefits of breaking a
bona-fide blockbuster.
The question here in late 2005 is which emerging
trends quick-serves might want to examine closely if they want to secure
that all-important first-mover advantage. TrendMapping analysis reveals six
specific up-and-comers:
1 Chimichurri
This Argentinean dipping sauce, currently classified as
a Stage 1 trend, although the buzz surrounding it is growing in volume and
intensity, is as ubiquitous in that beef-loving nation as ketchup is here
in the U.S. The highly acidic and herbal concoction—made with olive
oil, vinegar, parsley, oregano, onion, and garlic
and seasoned with salt, black pepper, and cayenne—makes for a magnificent meat and fish marinade.
Chimichurri’s uniquely sharp, intense flavor and
vinaigrette-like texture could make it every bit as popular here as salsa
is today. And because, like salsa, its basic ingredient mix can be altered
to achieve varying degrees of spiciness and different flavor
profiles—variants include red pepper flakes, cilantro and mint, red
or white vinegar, soy sauce, tomatoes, and sherry—chimichurri’s
versatility is already attracting the attention of culinary trendsetters
like James Schenk, owner and executive chef of the Nuevo Latino bistro
Destino on San Francisco’s Market Street. Last year, Schenk ladled
chimichurri over Pacific mahi-mahi and a puree of white fava beans. A few
blocks away, the Acme Chophouse, in the city’s South of Market
district, offers a chimichurri sauce as one of five sauce selections
available for any of its popular beef entrees. In addition, at Foreign
Cinema in San Francisco, it’s served as part of a delicious natural
rib-eye dinner.
Epicurious.com lists some 15 recipes for chimichurri
dating back to 1999, and, in a development that reveals how much momentum the green stuff from Argentina is gaining Stateside,
both T.G.I. Friday’s and Chili’s have begun incorporating
chimichurri in their menu items.
2 Churrasco
Churrasco, Brazil’s rustic barbecue tradition, is
simple, succulent, and highly social. Because it originated in one of the
country’s rural cattle-farming regions, it is humble to the extreme.
Basic tools of the trade are an open flame, a skewering sword, and a
carving knife. The only seasonings used in true traditional churrasco are
sea salt and garlic. The open flame results in meat that’s charred
and smoked on the outside, but still tender and juicy inside.
If you’ve never been to a churrascaria,
you’re in for a treat. Think Dim Sum, South American-style. The first
half of the meal consists of an enormous salad bar that boasts an
astounding array of hot and cold appetizers. Then, out come huge skewers of meat, which your server will typically stab
into the top of your table while he or she carves off slabs of perfectly
fire-grilled meats for you. The staff will keep on stopping by and slicing
until you indicate, by turning over a card or medallion they’ve placed on your table, that you’ve had your
fill.
Churrascarias have already taken root in San Francisco
and New York, and Fogo de Chao, a chain with outlets in Dallas, Houston,
Atlanta, Chicago, and Beverly Hills, has proven with its success that the
concept has legs.
Steven Raichlen, host of public television’s
Barbecue University and author of several best-selling books on barbecue, says
he believes churrasco is clearly among the hottest barbecue trends in the
U.S. today, and adds that he believes the
churrascaria could be “the Outback of the
new millennium.” With that kind of
endorsement, it’s not hard to see why we’re bullish on
Brazilian barbecue’s potential in the marketplace.
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