Competition | July 2014 | By Tamara Omazic

The Mighty Indies

Single-unit concepts prove why you don't need quantity to create quality.
Fast food brands like Zingermans build growth strategy around quality.
Ann Arbor, Michigan–based Zingerman’s Delicatessen is a legend in the quick-serve industry, but while the business has grown, the deli itself still only has one unit. Zingerman’s Delicatessen
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For every limited-service chain pushing for growth and expansion across the U.S., there’s a crop of independent single-unit brands forgoing the traditional growth strategy to focus on excellence at the community level. Operators at these restaurants wear many hats, often performing the tasks of an entire C-suite on their own. But while the job is a challenging one, it’s also a rewarding one, allowing these indies to be a driving force in their respective communities.

QSR goes behind the scenes of some of the nation’s standout single-unit concepts to find out why in restaurant development, quantity is not always quality.

Smoque

3800 North Pulaski Road, Chicago

Chicago may not be a iconic destination for barbecue, but one local joint situated in the city’s Irving Park neighborhood gives locals a taste of the best ’cue from around the country. Opened in 2011, Smoque filled a void in the city’s vibrant food scene, says co-owner Barry Sorkin.

“We thought Chicago needed, at the time, better barbecue than it had,” he says. “When we opened, you would have been hard-pressed to find a place doing brisket in Chicago. It was kind of a rib town, and you were starting to see pulled pork more often.”

Now, the concept is best known for its tender brisket, which is coated with a heavy dry rub and then smoked with apple and oak wood for 14 hours. The menu also features ribs, chicken, pulled pork, and sausage, prepared in a variety of ways with influences from Texas, Kansas City, Memphis, and the Carolinas.

“The best thing about being in Chicago is that we’re not bound by any particular barbecue tradition, and I think that’s what makes it interesting,” Sorkin says.

With all menu items, the meat, not the sauce, is the star of the plate, and Smoque’s founders have even composed their own manifesto on how barbecue should be done: low and slow. “I think when you’re a chain [operation], you look at ways to find shortcuts and optimize operations, and I think that has a way of degrading the end result,” Sorkin says.

While running a single-unit fast casual can be taxing—Sorkin says he and his cofounders multitask as owners, human resource specialists, marketers, and other critical jobs—there is a larger opportunity to be engrained in the community and make connections with patrons on a daily basis. It’s not unusual for a guest to chat with one of the owners about the craft of barbecue, Sorkin adds.

“There’s always an owner on the premises, and people like that,” he says. “People enjoy being able to talk to us about why we do things the way we do. If you go to a Chili’s and talk to a manager, they’re not going to have any idea why they do what they do—they follow a set of procedures.”

As a bring-your-own-beer restaurant, Smoque maintains a neighborhood-friendly vibe, and its cofounders are also keen on partnering with local community organizations in whatever way they can.

Claire de Lune Coffee Lounge

2906 University Avenue, San Diego

When Claire Magnick opened Claire de Lune Coffee Lounge in 1997 in San Diego’s North Park, the neighborhood was a rundown part of town lacking a cultural hub and thriving business establishments. But by 2012, North Park found its way onto Forbes magazine’s list of hippest hipster neighborhoods.

“We really started the renaissance of North Park,” Magnick says. “I brought in music; I brought in poetry; I did everything just to build the neighborhood.” The business of running a community hub keeps her occupied and committed to the single-unit operation, she adds.

What began as a little coffee shop serving homemade soups and light lunch items grew to be a well-known community center with live music, local artists, and a 6,500-square-foot events center available for rent. Magnick says she focused on creating a business that honored the spirit of North Park and its locals. “That little piece of culture we brought into North Park gave us the ability to buy the space on the whole corner,” she adds.

The building is a landmark of sorts, with a modified Spanish Revival–style exterior and restored arch windows that mimic glazed Roman arcades, and Magnick works to keep the architecture preserved—an effort that’s won her an award from San Diego’s Save our Heritage Organization.

Inside the vibrant yellow restaurant, Magnick keeps the kitchen operation small. Coffee and tea beverages can be customized with a variety of syrups and paired with an assortment of cookies and pastries. The breakfast menu includes bagels, sandwiches, waffles, and made-to-order omelets that guests can customize. The lunch menu offers salads, sandwiches, and homemade quiche in flavors like loaded baked potato and chile relleno, and everything on the menu is less than $8.50.

“We’re more than just a coffee house now … and I put all my heart into building Claire de Lune that I didn’t see use in going somewhere else,” Magnick says of her decision to maintain one location. “In its heyday, we were serving about 700 people a day.” Business continues to thrive, especially with the expanded special events space that comes with catering from the restaurant, she adds.

Bull City Burger and Brewery

107 East Parrish Street, Durham, North Carolina

North Carolina’s flourishing Triangle area, composed of Durham, Chapel Hill, and state capital Raleigh, is an up-and-coming hotbed for dining and craft beer, and Bull City Burger and Brewery in Durham stands out as one of the best destinations for both. The three-year-old concept was founded by Culinary Institute of America–trained restaurateur Seth Gross, who ensured the one-unit brand captured the essence of Durham, colloquially known as the Bull City.

“I strongly believe that you have to support the community that’s supporting you, so because I am a guy who’s local, I see these people in the grocery store, in the restaurant, and they know me,” Gross says. “I want our restaurant to be part of the fabric of Durham ... because it’s a great community.”

He says the restaurant was born from his passion and experience in craft brewing and the idea of a great $10 meal. “I wanted someone to come in and get french fries, a burger with all the free toppings, and an all-you-can-drink natural soda for $10,” he says. “I worked backward from there, and part of that was being limited service.”

As a single unit, Bull City is able to offer home-style beef and veggie burgers, hot dogs, fries, and desserts, mostly made with ingredients sourced from local providers. Guests can create their own burgers or hot dogs with toppings such as pickled veggies, triple fermented sauerkraut, pimento cheese, and a variety of house-made sauces.

“I wanted to treat the folks in the restaurant like they were coming to my own home, and if you came to my house for Sunday dinner, I would cook for you. So it seemed natural to me to make the food the way I would at home,” Gross says. “That’s what we do at Bull City—we make everything, including the mustard, the mayonnaise, pickles, relish, sauerkraut, bacon, buns, [and] dogs.”

With a thriving craft-brewing scene in the surrounding area, Gross says, the concept can offer creative brew selections. On a given day, there are about seven Bull City beers on tap; guests can see the metal brewing equipment through windows in the restaurant. Though its beer garners Bull City much attention, operating a brewery on top of a restaurant was a big challenge, Gross says, one that he and his employees have managed to streamline.

Now, he says, the next challenge is transitioning Bull City from an up-and-coming concept to a classic. “I think about restaurants as either new and exciting or you make the jump across to classic, where you are a staple,” Gross says. “If you’re in between, you’re kind of dead. We’re now three years in, and things are going great … but I want to make sure we make that leap.”

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